Tuesday, July 1, 2014

A New President (Tuesday)

Today, Panama's new president, Juan Carlos Varela, was inaugurated.  After a very vicious campaign season, Panama has emerged with a new power in the White House.

During his speech, the new president gave the gangs until August 1 to disarm "and join civic life" and   promised to tackle government corruption, something that has drained the country and caused mistrust of citizens.  He faces a daunting challenge, given how endemic corruption has become in the area (and not just in Panama).  It will also be hard to address the fundamental economic inequality of a country where fully one quarter of the population lives in poverty.  And many of those are indigenous people.

The inauguration was attended by many important people including US Secretary of State John Kerry, and was covered by all of the news networks here.




It's hard to see, but John Kerry is
leaving here (look for the grey
hair!)
That was a happy event.

But then the US lost to Belgium in the World Cup, which definitely did NOT make my day!

Saying Goodbye to Sewellyn (Monday)

All good things must come to an end they say, and today, it was Sewellyn's trip to Panama that had to be finished.  Alas!  We sure had a fabulous time together though!

Your selfies might leave room for improvement...


but your spirit and zest for life (not to mention your wonderful laugh and quick wit) are perfect just the way they are.  One might even say they are "Awesome".  Or perhaps not.

Thank you, Sewellyn, for your companionship, adventuring spirit, and culinary genius!  Panama feels practically empty without you.



Notice the paper "elephant-du-jour"
stuffing the hole in the lid so the
rice would cook properly
(and Sewellyn's temporary tattoo
from our Embera visit)



Sunday, Busy Sunday

We got up early again today, but this time for the reverse journey back to Panama City.  At the airport, Sewellyn entertained the other passengers awaiting the plane with photos from her recent trip on the Danube.  They were enchanted by these pictures of a place faraway, both in mind and on the map.



And then, the plane appeared and off we went!


Into the wild blue yonder - by way of Achutupu.



       

The urge to share the pictures - it's universal!
When the new passengers got on, there was a Director of Education for a Foundation who was responsible for all of the Darien (!) and her colleague, a professor of Informatics.  And, of course, there was the obligatory selfie as well!
 

Off we flew en route to Panama City.  We had a smooth ride and landed at Albrook Airport where Rogelio was waiting for us.

We went home and caught up on email and posting of photos here for Anna Rachel to print and bring for our next visits to the Embera and the Kuna.

Then, shortly after noon, Grace and Gerry Lindner from Balboa Union Church stopped by and we were off on another adventure.  First, they were stopping at Discovery Center, just around the corner from me, for some stuff to finish a sprinkler system for the garden.  Since we were there, Sewellyn suggested that we look for some things to take to the Embera and Kuna.  And off we went!  I was amazed at how much the Panamanians like their dogs.  Here is a very small selection of the leashes available.

We found all manner of things - toothbrushes, washcloths, paper, colored pencils, a soccer ball and some toys.  It was a very productive trip!
Seems particularly appropriate
given how everyone here has been
"Bitten" by the World Cup Bug!
It was a lot of laughs!

And then, we went to find lunch.  Sewellyn likened it to a joke, "Four old people walk into a [Sports] Bar..." Indeed, we did exactly that, and were soon overrun by Costa Rican fans cheering their team in a battle against Greece.  But it was still a lot of laughs!

And finally, they took us to Rey for a chicken and lettuce (which turned into its own Laugh-In joke)

Dear sweet Grace and Gerry!  They spent their afternoon ferrying us around and were so good natured about it, we were so grateful!

Once we were home again, Sewellyn popped the chicken into the oven and we prepared for dinner with Elba.  And Lydia happened by at about the time to eat, and stayed on for dinner.  

So what started very early in the morning went full circle, filled with interesting things to do and share, and wonderful people to share them with.

Away to the Islands (Friday and Saturday)

Man, 4:30 am is very early.  And getting up at 3:45 am in order to be ready to be picked up at 4:30 is even worse.  Still, it was worth it because we got to Albrook Airport (thanks to Rogelio) in time to check in and relax a bit before our flight.  

And also make sure there was a clinic in case Sewellyn needed it.  And to watch the spectacular lightening fork against the sky (just what you want to see when you're going to be flying in a small plane!)


We watched as other flights boarded.  It was raining so Air Panama provided bright red umbrellas to the passengers who had to walk to the plane.

Luckily, by the time our flight boarded, the rain had almost stopped and we boarded with ease.

As before, we flew on a Twin Otter turboprop.  Our flight was uneventful (thankfully)  and soon, we landed at Achutupu where they loaded and unloaded cargo and passengers.  Achutupu is a remote place with an extremely minimal airport, and most of those who embark or debark here are Kuna.


Then, on to Playon Chico.  Here, we were met by Domi of Yandup.  He made sure everything was unloaded OK, and then waited with us in the small airport until the rain stopped a bit.


There were carved figures leaning against the walls.  Domi said that these were left over from a ceremony in the community.  He showed us his own and said that everyone had had to carve one.  The ceremony's purpose was a bit vague but it went on for some time (I believe they said it was 2 weeks long and required everyone to be there)  



There is also a small Computer Center in the corner, but its door is covered by figures, and it doesn't seem that anyone uses it.




Finally, we were ready to go.  We piled into the boat and started off.  Domi had to return a cooking pan, so we motored slowly up to a house on the shore where he put the pot down in the yard before we pushed off.  

The latrines are simple shacks over the water as there is no sewage treatment facility for the Community.  Yandup is planning on helping build a "black water treatment facility" in the future.

On the way across to Yandup, we watched some people sailing and saw "kid fishing school" where the young boys were learning how to fish with lines.
 



We arrived and went to our cabin where we checked out the beds and, perhaps more importantly, the hammocks.

Then, we headed over for breakfast.

A highlight was the incredibly interesting crew of folks always staying at Yandup.

Brooke and Jared hail from DC.  They were there on a special trip away from their young children - just a few days of R&R.  What interesting folks they are too!  They lived in Argentina when Jared was working for the US Embassy there, and have traveled quite a lot in Latin America.  They love dogs, so here's a photo of Jared befriending a puppy on our visit to the Community.

Roland and Sylvia are both inveterate travelers as well.  We met them first when we were visiting the Embera.  They stayed overnight in that community, and were curious about Kuna Yala.  I strongly suggested they go to Yandup for 2 nights and we were pleased to see them there when we arrived.  Sylvia used to be a reporter for the Washington Post.  They are also fascinating!

We wish that we had taken a photo of the 6 of us together!  But even so, we had a great time together!

And then the "Life in Paradise" part started. We swam in the warm ocean, we walked in the sand, we looked for and found shells, and followed the World Cup with Blanco and Claudio.
  

Blanco with the all-important
radio with the World Cup game
as we went to the beach in the boat
(I loaned him my plastic bag to
keep it dry)
The most interesting part of our stay was an opportunity to visit the Community.  Here is a sampling of our photos (both Sewellyn's and mine - so there are a couple of similar photos)




Domi and his wife
The World Cup is a big deal - here are all
the games for all the teams







Main Street
and 2 phone booths


 This young chap climbed to the top of a house to throw off his paper airplane!  This game me an idea and we'll be bringing airplanes to the kids.

There was a demonstration of a dance by the young men
and women of the Community.
Sewellyn and I took school supplies to the Community.  The Headmaster of the school
posed with us.  It was the day when everyone got their report cards.  Below is
Blanco's eldest's report card.  He's a smart cookie!

 
 A high point for me was my Kuna haircut!  Domi's wife cut my hair to a great audience, and much laughter.



I love the end result (although it will take a *bit* of trimming once I'm back home)

We spent time at Yandup itself doing a variety of things - including beading (of course!)  We had an impromptu beading workshop and the staff made some wonderful bracelets.  Claudio really went to town and made bracelets representing his team in the Cup (Argentina) as well as gifts for his wife.  Blanco also made a Brazil bracelet, while the women made small ones for their daughters.  It was great fun!

  

We also noticed a pelican sitting on the railing of the next cottage.  We took lots of photos, excited to be able to get so close to such a magnificent bird.  Sadly, as we suspected, the bird was not well and died the second afternoon.  At least we got to document his splendor before he died.

We spent the rest of our time hanging out, taking photos, and generally relaxing.

All in all, it was a magical time.