Monday, July 7, 2014

Crazy lazy (Monday)

Today we had planned to go to the Canal, but Rogelio was called out of town to deal with a client's emergency, so we've postponed that until tomorrow.

So we sat with the Lonely Planet guide, and looked online at Trip Advisor and other sites to decide what to do.  But all the things that looked coolest, like the new BioDiversity museum (a Frank Gerry masterpiece that looks like a scarlet macaw from the air apparently (not that I'd know) and the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute, are closed on Monday.  :-(

So what are we doing?  We considered a hike in the Metropolitan Park and even got all sun screened up for it.  But somehow, it just seemed like too much trouble.

Instead, it seems that catching up (blog, email, etc) and relaxing are what we both need.

And naps.  I would post a selfie of me napping but that would be, er, difficult.  But here's AR at rest.

Sweet dreams my darling!

The Soul of the City (Sunday)

We began our morning at Balboa Union Church where I showed off Anna Rachel to my friends there.  A number of good friends have already left (notably Patricia, Grace and Gerry), but Martha May was there, as well as other folks I know less well.

Then, we went over to the Mercado de Mariscos for ceviche.  It's always a treat to eat fresh ceviche there, and this time, the market itself was full of vendors and fish of every type, color and size.





And then, ceviche!  We shared a combo and a languistino (large shrimp)  Unfortunately, it seemed like the "crab" in the combo was actually imitation crab, but it was delicious nonetheless.




From lunch, we set out for Casco Viejo.  We started at Plaza de Francia and had a shaved ice.  The yellow jackets swarmed around the sugary syrups but he seemed unafraid of stings.  Perhaps he knew that they would much prefer the sugars to him?  But we shied away.  Our shaved ice was fabulous however.  Anna Rachel got maracuya (passion fruit) and I got pineapple and coconut.  Both were yummy!

 

We walked up the stairs to the Paseo las Bovedas which runs along the top of the sea wall built by the Spanish to protect the city.

The view is wonderful.  




  

We had a lovely conversation with the young artist from Peru who Sewellyn and I met when we were here 2 weeks ago.  I purchased one of his pieces, a Peruvian turquoise and copper wire necklace, for Sewellyn and had a lovely conversation with him, which ended in warm handshakes and a gift from him of 2 macrame bracelets for Anna Rachel and me!
I really hope Sewellyn likes her new necklace!

We continued our walk, past a stall with some of the loveliest molas I've seen in Panama including up in Kuna Yala.  We tarried briefly, but kept walking.  I bought a hat to replace my original one which totally disintegrated in the dryer (don't ask!)  We saw more molas and then Anna Rachel realized that one of the ones we saw at the first stall was something she would love.  We walked back up and she bought it - but the edges weren't complete yet because it was one that the woman was still working on.  They said to give them 15 minutes or so - so we wandered off again.  Even in the shade it was oppressively hot and we both were sweating (there is no lady-like way to say that) profusely.  My new hat was soaked around the hat band and AR had sweat rolling down her back.  But we were having lots of fun.  When we went back up, they weren't quite ready, so we sat under their tarp and I chatted with them about Kuna Yala.  We asked about their names, and the woman went so far as to embroider her name on the mola!  A unique and wonderful reminder!

We dallied as we walked down the Paseo in a shady arch of trees, but the heat was only slightly better.  The breeze coming off the ocean, however, was welcome!  We cooled down a little and then set out to explore Casco Viejo.  We wandered - finding a restaurant that Itzel mentioned was great (further confirmed by the NY Times) but it was closed until dinner, we we walked some more, looking at the buildings - restored, in the process of being restored and not-yet-restored - and marveled at the overall feel of the neighborhood.  There were remarkably few people walking about - whether because of the heat or because of other pressing matters.  Last time when Sewellyn and I were in Casco Viejo, there was a football (soccer to you Americans out there) match and much activity.  The craft market that was in the Cathedral Square the last times I've been there was also missing.  But it was lovely to have the views and the camera angles pretty much to ourselves.

We decided to find a place to drink and found a lovely cool bar where we sat for quite a while as we cooled down a bit and then sipped frosty cold pina coladas.  Such decadence!  

A few more streets and pictures later, we grabbed a cab and returned home, tired, sweaty, and happy.

In the evening, we took advantage of the fact that I can get both Panamanian and American films through Netflix because I set up my VPN before leaving the States.  We watched "The Help" - a really terrific movie that Anna Rachel had never seen.  Like I was the first time, she was crying by the end - it's that good!  I also did a beading project while watching.  So it was a lovely evening!

Some of our pictures from Casco Viejo:
















             (These are close-ups of peeling layers of paint - oddly romantic and atmospheric)