Today, I returned to Embera Pura, the village I visited with Sewellyn a couple of weeks ago. This time, Anna Rachel came along - as well as Itzel and her family. Itzel is a fellow Fulbrighter with whom I have been e-talking for many months. Her husband, John is down until mid-week, and her daughter, Jasmine, is spending the summer here. They are a wonderful family!
And this was a wonderful trip!
You know how sometimes, when you go do something you've done before, you wonder why you thought it was so great? Well, that is DEFINITELY NOT the case for this tour. It was, if anything, even better.
There were 9 of us, plus Archie the guide and 2 Embera boatmen onboard as we started up the river, after an hour plus in the dugout canoe. It hasn't rained for over a week and the river was even lower than it was the last time I was there. In fact, in a couple of places, the men had to get out and help push us over the rocky bottom with just inches of water and rocks scraping the bottom.
As we motored up-river, we saw many birds and heard the cicadas buzzing in the forest. And we baked. The sun was blisteringly hot and the heat, relentless.
Finally, we made it to the rocky sand bar where we beached the dugout and stepped ashore to the music of the village.
Once again, we climbed the stairs into the village and assembled in the large Assembly building (or lack of a better term). There, we had a few minutes to shop at the tables of the families. I found a lovely owl mask for my office, and a plate for Anna Rachel that Flor, the woman I met last time, had made. It was such fun seeming them again!
In fact, it was great seeing everyone! Everyone - even the kids - knew that I had been there before and welcomed me warmly. A number asked when I would be coming back to the Village and said that they hoped I would come often. It was a wonderful experience!
As before, we learned about how the Embera make their crafts - how the women dye the fibers to make the baskets, and how the men carve wood and tauga nut into creatures of the Jungle. Even though I had heard it before, it was still interesting.
And lunch was as yummy as last time - tasty tilapia straight from the river with patacones, and fruit for dessert.
After lunch, the kids took us up to the school. They bolted up the stairs while we huffed and puffed to follow them. At the top of the hill stood the school, and a huge solar panel. The kids were obviously proud of their school. There are 2 teachers who come up the river on Monday to teach in this multi-grade school that goes to 5th grade. They teach all week, staying in the village, and then go back down-river on Friday after classes. The kids are learning Spanish and English along with the other basic subjects. They seemed happy to go to school, and proud of the fact that they could understand us at least a little.
Once again, I saw baby Brody, Flor's son who is 7 months old. He has 2 teeth now, and she said that some babies nurse until they are 4 years old, so they have to learn how to nurse without hurting their mothers. I "danced Spanish" a bit - talking with my hands and speaking the best I could - but we communicated and understood each other!
I had made 40+ bracelets for the kids and we brought a box of school supplies and, the best present of all, a soccer ball and pump! The kids took off after it - playing soccer and having a lot of fun. The kids also really liked the bracelets - and there were just enough. It was nice to feel like we left something behind for them (and we know how much they need school supplies!)
Then the community danced for us - and THIS time, we all got up and danced too. It was such fun!
After the dancing it was time to go. We lingered, saying good-bye to the kids and the parents, and liberally dispensing hugs. Archie had to bark at us finally to get us to leave!
On the way down-river, it was easier. The current was swift and carried us over the bars and through the rocky parts. We slewed and it seemed like we were going to swamp at one point as we were going through some rapids, but we were fine and soon, the river widen out into the lake and we motored safely back to the landing.
Happy, but all a bit pink from the sun, we piled into the van for home.
We were exhausted but it was worth it! Totally! And I'd go again tomorrow. But tomorrow is another adventure.
Some photos of the village and the villagers.
 |
| Soccer! |
 |
| Today's Cooks |
 |
| "It's a good bug" (and very lovely!) |
 |
| The Tattoo maker |
 |
| Painting Anna Rachel's Tattoo |
 |
| Tattoo in process |
 |
| The end result |
 |
| The kids line up for the bracelets I brought |
 |
| Erito handing out the bracelets |
 |
| Learning to dance |
 |
| The Flower Dance |
 |
| Everyone's dancing |
 |
| Musicians |
 |
| Flor, her husband, and Brody (7 months) |
 |
| Heading up-river |
 |
| Where we had lunch |
 |
| Tilapia! |
 |
| And fruit! |
 |
| Is it real? (beards aren't an Embera thing) |
 |
| Lunch hut |
 |
| Making a basket |
