Sampling Panamanian Transportation (Friday)

Dawn came all too early!  And with it our return to the airport to fly back to Panama City.

 

And so our first installment of travel began.  This time, we stopped at El Porvenir, the capital of Kuna Yala and gateway to the more-visited Western communities.  It actually had what seemed like an airport - unlike the landing strips we had been using in Kuna Yala.  It felt rather jolting somehow. like our Twin Otter plane was unaccustomed to such luxury (if that's what it was... it had an actual radar 

When we arrived, once again, Rogelio picked us up and brought us home where we showered and got ready for the next part of our day.

Itzel McClaren drove down from Colon where she has been living as she prepares her mother's house for sale.  Yasmine has been attending a local school in Colon, so the main time constraint was getting there in time to pick her up.  And we did.  Barely.  

Itzel gave us a bit of a tour of the city, in the rain.  There hasn't been enough of that in Colon - or in many parts of the countryside.  But today, it poured!

We stopped at the grand old Hotel Washington.  It has been restored to its glory and it is quite an impressive place.  It is cool marble inside and as I walked through the portal, I was back in Mysore, India, stepping into the hotel there.  The same gracious welcome.  The same faint odor of a grandeur.

Then we continued our tour.

We explored the campus of the former School of the Americas, which was, according to Wikipedia:

 ... founded in 1946 and from 1961 was assigned the specific goal of teaching "anti-communist counterinsurgency training," a role which it would fulfill for the rest of the Cold War. In this period, it educated several Latin American dictators [Including, ironically, Manuel Noriega who the US invaded Panama to overthrow in 1989], generations of their military and, during the 1980s, included the uses of torture in its curriculum.

The function has since moved to Ft. Benning, Georgia, and the former grounds have been converted to a huge luxury hotel.   (take a peek at:  http://www.melia.com/en/hotels/panama/colon/melia-panama-canal/index.html) 

So you, too, can swim in the pools that dictators swam in.  And, if you wander too far, you may find yourself facing a crocodile.  

We made our way to the Expansion of the Canal.  There, we watched a movie showing how the Expansion project is proceeding, what the new locks will work, and why there's a need for it.  Personally, the current "Panamax" ships - that are almost exactly the width of the locks - are big enough.  I wouldn't want to be abroad one in a storm!  It's hard to imagine that there are even bigger behemoths waiting to cross from one sea to the other.

We had a lovely lunch - not realizing that the whole place was just waiting to close - and then, we scurried to the train station.  The Panama Canal Railway has one train a day - leaving from Panama City at 7:15 am and returning from Colon at 5:15 pm sharp.  After saying goodbye to Itzel and Yasmine, Anna Rachel and I climbed up into the observation car for the ride through the jungle back to Panama City.

We sped through the jungle alongside the Canal.  It was still spitting rain and the sky was cloudy, but it was still a pretty spectacular ride!

Tired but happy, we found a cab and then sped back to the apartment.  To pack.  Because tomorrow, Anna Rachel must leave for home.  It's been a really wonderful time! 

Away to the Islands (Friday and Saturday)

Man, 4:30 am is very early.  And getting up at 3:45 am in order to be ready to be picked up at 4:30 is even worse.  Still, it was worth it because we got to Albrook Airport (thanks to Rogelio) in time to check in and relax a bit before our flight.  

And also make sure there was a clinic in case Sewellyn needed it.  And to watch the spectacular lightening fork against the sky (just what you want to see when you're going to be flying in a small plane!)

We watched as other flights boarded.  It was raining so Air Panama provided bright red umbrellas to the passengers who had to walk to the plane.

Luckily, by the time our flight boarded, the rain had almost stopped and we boarded with ease.

As before, we flew on a Twin Otter turboprop.  Our flight was uneventful (thankfully)  and soon, we landed at Achutupu where they loaded and unloaded cargo and passengers.  Achutupu is a remote place with an extremely minimal airport, and most of those who embark or debark here are Kuna.

Then, on to Playon Chico.  Here, we were met by Domi of Yandup.  He made sure everything was unloaded OK, and then waited with us in the small airport until the rain stopped a bit.

There were carved figures leaning against the walls.  Domi said that these were left over from a ceremony in the community.  He showed us his own and said that everyone had had to carve one.  The ceremony's purpose was a bit vague but it went on for some time (I believe they said it was 2 weeks long and required everyone to be there)  

There is also a small Computer Center in the corner, but its door is covered by figures, and it doesn't seem that anyone uses it.

Finally, we were ready to go.  We piled into the boat and started off.  Domi had to return a cooking pan, so we motored slowly up to a house on the shore where he put the pot down in the yard before we pushed off.  

The latrines are simple shacks over the water as there is no sewage treatment facility for the Community.  Yandup is planning on helping build a "black water treatment facility" in the future.

On the way across to Yandup, we watched some people sailing and saw "kid fishing school" where the young boys were learning how to fish with lines.

 

We arrived and went to our cabin where we checked out the beds and, perhaps more importantly, the hammocks.

Then, we headed over for breakfast.

A highlight was the incredibly interesting crew of folks always staying at Yandup.

Brooke and Jared hail from DC.  They were there on a special trip away from their young children - just a few days of R&R.  What interesting folks they are too!  They lived in Argentina when Jared was working for the US Embassy there, and have traveled quite a lot in Latin America.  They love dogs, so here's a photo of Jared befriending a puppy on our visit to the Community.

Roland and Sylvia are both inveterate travelers as well.  We met them first when we were visiting the Embera.  They stayed overnight in that community, and were curious about Kuna Yala.  I strongly suggested they go to Yandup for 2 nights and we were pleased to see them there when we arrived.  Sylvia used to be a reporter for the Washington Post.  They are also fascinating!

We wish that we had taken a photo of the 6 of us together!  But even so, we had a great time together!

And then the "Life in Paradise" part started. We swam in the warm ocean, we walked in the sand, we looked for and found shells, and followed the World Cup with Blanco and Claudio.

  

Blanco with the all-important
radio with the World Cup game
as we went to the beach in the boat
(I loaned him my plastic bag to
keep it dry)

The most interesting part of our stay was an opportunity to visit the Community.  Here is a sampling of our photos (both Sewellyn's and mine - so there are a couple of similar photos)

Domi and his wife

The World Cup is a big deal - here are all
the games for all the teams

Main Street
and 2 phone booths

 This young chap climbed to the top of a house to throw off his paper airplane!  This game me an idea and we'll be bringing airplanes to the kids.

There was a demonstration of a dance by the young men
and women of the Community.

Sewellyn and I took school supplies to the Community.  The Headmaster of the school
posed with us.  It was the day when everyone got their report cards.  Below is
Blanco's eldest's report card.  He's a smart cookie!

 

 A high point for me was my Kuna haircut!  Domi's wife cut my hair to a great audience, and much laughter.

I love the end result (although it will take a *bit* of trimming once I'm back home)

We spent time at Yandup itself doing a variety of things - including beading (of course!)  We had an impromptu beading workshop and the staff made some wonderful bracelets.  Claudio really went to town and made bracelets representing his team in the Cup (Argentina) as well as gifts for his wife.  Blanco also made a Brazil bracelet, while the women made small ones for their daughters.  It was great fun!

  

We also noticed a pelican sitting on the railing of the next cottage.  We took lots of photos, excited to be able to get so close to such a magnificent bird.  Sadly, as we suspected, the bird was not well and died the second afternoon.  At least we got to document his splendor before he died.

We spent the rest of our time hanging out, taking photos, and generally relaxing.

All in all, it was a magical time.