Paradise, pt. 3 (Wednesday and Thursday)

Way before dawn, Anna Rachel and I climbed into Rogelio's car for the ride to Albrook Airport and a two day stay in Paradise, a.k.a., Yandup.  Just as the sun was breaking the night and jumping into the sky, we boarded the trusty Twin Otter and jumped into the sky ourselves.  We had a smooth flight, first landing at a landing strip that was new to me, Akwanusadup where 2 Mormon missionaries boarded the flight, and then on to Playon Chico where we were met by Kuna women and, of course, Blanco of the Yandup staff.

And so we embarked on the final leg of the journey to Paradise in the launch sent from Yandup to collect us and our things.

We settled in immediately.  It was as if all the stresses and strains of modern life - things we aren't even aware of as we go about our day - melted away in the beauty of the place.

We ate breakfast and then set off for the beach.  And it was gorgeous!  Of course.  Anna Rachel went snorkeling and I sat and read after walking around the island a bit to take some photos.  I didn't get far because of the warning that there were lots of sand fleas in the grass, so I was content to read and relax while Anna Rachel had a blast in the water, well-protected by sun screen of course.

When we returned, after lunch, I spent some time doing what I love, beading.

And, as always, I was joined by my Kuna friends who put down their molas to join me in beading.  I love the way this happens.  They come over and soon, they are talking and joking and I mirrored their smiles.  It felt like we were all sisters, enjoying each others company and doing something we all enjoy doing to give to others dear to us.  I love that about beading!

Although the quarter finals of the World Cup were on, several guests insisted on going to the Community.  This was somewhat futile because no one to speak of was on the streets because everyone in the Community was watching the game.  And besides some of us (myself and Blanco included) would have rather watched the game and come to town the next day.

As a result, Blanco walked us through the village pretty quickly, and there wasn't a lot of chance to interact with people - except the kids.  We took the things for the kids with us, and handed them out, but it was too bad that we didn't really have enough - I was thinking that Blanco might use the things (foam airplanes - like the one Anna Rachel is putting together in the photo above)  and plastic flutes) a bit more strategically.  

We rather quickly went back to the boat and motored back across the water to Yandup where everyone was watching.  

Everyone was routing for Argentina - except the Dutch guests of course.  There was much joy when Argentina won!

 Our second day was similar to the first.  In the morning, we went to a beach where Anna Rachel again snorkeled.

Then, in the afternoon, Anna Rachel joined a group who hiked up to the Community's cemetery.  There, she learned that when someone dies, they are buried in a hammock in a large hole, that has a a shelf above the hammock with all of the person's possessions.

After dinner, Claudio joined me for some last minute beading.  He had a headlamp which made it much easier!

And so ended another trip to Paradise.  Hasta la proximal!

Away to the Islands (Friday and Saturday)

Man, 4:30 am is very early.  And getting up at 3:45 am in order to be ready to be picked up at 4:30 is even worse.  Still, it was worth it because we got to Albrook Airport (thanks to Rogelio) in time to check in and relax a bit before our flight.  

And also make sure there was a clinic in case Sewellyn needed it.  And to watch the spectacular lightening fork against the sky (just what you want to see when you're going to be flying in a small plane!)

We watched as other flights boarded.  It was raining so Air Panama provided bright red umbrellas to the passengers who had to walk to the plane.

Luckily, by the time our flight boarded, the rain had almost stopped and we boarded with ease.

As before, we flew on a Twin Otter turboprop.  Our flight was uneventful (thankfully)  and soon, we landed at Achutupu where they loaded and unloaded cargo and passengers.  Achutupu is a remote place with an extremely minimal airport, and most of those who embark or debark here are Kuna.

Then, on to Playon Chico.  Here, we were met by Domi of Yandup.  He made sure everything was unloaded OK, and then waited with us in the small airport until the rain stopped a bit.

There were carved figures leaning against the walls.  Domi said that these were left over from a ceremony in the community.  He showed us his own and said that everyone had had to carve one.  The ceremony's purpose was a bit vague but it went on for some time (I believe they said it was 2 weeks long and required everyone to be there)  

There is also a small Computer Center in the corner, but its door is covered by figures, and it doesn't seem that anyone uses it.

Finally, we were ready to go.  We piled into the boat and started off.  Domi had to return a cooking pan, so we motored slowly up to a house on the shore where he put the pot down in the yard before we pushed off.  

The latrines are simple shacks over the water as there is no sewage treatment facility for the Community.  Yandup is planning on helping build a "black water treatment facility" in the future.

On the way across to Yandup, we watched some people sailing and saw "kid fishing school" where the young boys were learning how to fish with lines.

 

We arrived and went to our cabin where we checked out the beds and, perhaps more importantly, the hammocks.

Then, we headed over for breakfast.

A highlight was the incredibly interesting crew of folks always staying at Yandup.

Brooke and Jared hail from DC.  They were there on a special trip away from their young children - just a few days of R&R.  What interesting folks they are too!  They lived in Argentina when Jared was working for the US Embassy there, and have traveled quite a lot in Latin America.  They love dogs, so here's a photo of Jared befriending a puppy on our visit to the Community.

Roland and Sylvia are both inveterate travelers as well.  We met them first when we were visiting the Embera.  They stayed overnight in that community, and were curious about Kuna Yala.  I strongly suggested they go to Yandup for 2 nights and we were pleased to see them there when we arrived.  Sylvia used to be a reporter for the Washington Post.  They are also fascinating!

We wish that we had taken a photo of the 6 of us together!  But even so, we had a great time together!

And then the "Life in Paradise" part started. We swam in the warm ocean, we walked in the sand, we looked for and found shells, and followed the World Cup with Blanco and Claudio.

  

Blanco with the all-important
radio with the World Cup game
as we went to the beach in the boat
(I loaned him my plastic bag to
keep it dry)

The most interesting part of our stay was an opportunity to visit the Community.  Here is a sampling of our photos (both Sewellyn's and mine - so there are a couple of similar photos)

Domi and his wife

The World Cup is a big deal - here are all
the games for all the teams

Main Street
and 2 phone booths

 This young chap climbed to the top of a house to throw off his paper airplane!  This game me an idea and we'll be bringing airplanes to the kids.

There was a demonstration of a dance by the young men
and women of the Community.

Sewellyn and I took school supplies to the Community.  The Headmaster of the school
posed with us.  It was the day when everyone got their report cards.  Below is
Blanco's eldest's report card.  He's a smart cookie!

 

 A high point for me was my Kuna haircut!  Domi's wife cut my hair to a great audience, and much laughter.

I love the end result (although it will take a *bit* of trimming once I'm back home)

We spent time at Yandup itself doing a variety of things - including beading (of course!)  We had an impromptu beading workshop and the staff made some wonderful bracelets.  Claudio really went to town and made bracelets representing his team in the Cup (Argentina) as well as gifts for his wife.  Blanco also made a Brazil bracelet, while the women made small ones for their daughters.  It was great fun!

  

We also noticed a pelican sitting on the railing of the next cottage.  We took lots of photos, excited to be able to get so close to such a magnificent bird.  Sadly, as we suspected, the bird was not well and died the second afternoon.  At least we got to document his splendor before he died.

We spent the rest of our time hanging out, taking photos, and generally relaxing.

All in all, it was a magical time.